Layer of time · 16th – 18th centuries
Towns, lords and the Mesta
Between the 16th and 18th centuries the villages of the Land of Cuenca became chartered towns one by one. Villalba de la Sierra broke away from the city in 1510, Fuentes received the title of villa in 1557 and Cañizares paid 2,280,000 maravedíes between 1582 and 1583 for its own jurisdiction. Other villages had a lord: in 1752 Huélamo paid the Count of Salvatierra twenty-four trout pies a year.
The 1752 Ensenada Cadastre portrays a sierra that lived from livestock, pine and the roads: Valeria had 38 muleteers trading in oil and iron, and in Villalba livestock was the main wealth.
A selection of traces related to this era. A place may have other origins, later transformations and uses.
Where these data come from
- Garrosa Mayordomo, J. (2025): «La compra de Cañizares por sus vecinos en el siglo XVI», Revista Mansiegona 19 (source consulted)
- Ayuntamiento de Fuentes (Diputación de Cuenca): Historia (source consulted)
- Macía Fernández, I. (2025): «La ganadería histórica en Villalba de la Sierra», Los Ojos del Júcar 31 (source consulted)
- Catastro de la Ensenada: Respuestas Generales de Huélamo (1752), en la transcripción de Vestal Etnografía (source consulted)
- Vestal (2025): «Arriería, ganadería y otros animales. El final de un modo de vida milenario en Valeria», Los Ojos del Júcar 31 (source consulted)
The stories of this era
- Episode · from 1500 to 1800Buying themselvesThe Serranía from the 16th to 18th centuries: villages buying their own courts, lords, wool, paper and iron, travellers to Peru and China and the 1752 Cadastre.
- Episode · from 1177 to 1948Everyone's woodlandWoodland ownership in the Serranía: Cuenca's hills, the king's pines, grazing disputes and villages that bought or lost their woods.
The era on the map
Mesozoic – today
Geology and dinosaurs
The dissolving of Mesozoic limestone shaped torcas, lakes and the Ciudad Encantada in the Serranía, a karst landscape to which the IGME, the Spanish Geological Survey, assigns 20 km².
Palaeolithic – Bronze Age
First marks and rock art
In Villar del Humo the regional government counts 31 painted sites with Levantine and schematic art, roughly between 8,000 and 3,500 years old; their rock shelters are part of the serial rock-art property that UNESCO inscribed in 1998.
7th – 1st centuries BC
Iberians and Celtiberians
The Iron Age left hillforts, settlements and cemeteries in the Serranía.
1st – 4th centuries
Rome and lapis specularis
Valeria was founded between 93 and 82 BC, and the villa of Noheda, from between the 1st century BC and the 6th century AD, keeps a figurative mosaic of 231.62 m²; both are in municipalities bordering the Serranía.
8th – 15th centuries
Frontier, charters and castles
Alfonso VIII resettled Moya and gave it a town charter in 1210, according to Chamocho; the charter does not survive and is known from a 1625 letter by the castle warden Baltasar Cavallón.
16th – 18th centuries
Towns, lords and the Mesta
Between the 16th and 18th centuries the villages of the Land of Cuenca became chartered towns one by one. Villalba de la Sierra broke away from the city in 1510, Fuentes received the title of villa in 1557 and Cañizares paid 2,280,000 maravedíes between 1582 and 1583 for its own jurisdiction. Other villages had a lord: in 1752 Huélamo paid the Count of Salvatierra twenty-four trout pies a year.
16th – 20th centuries
The trades of the forest and the water
For centuries the trades of the Serranía came from the pine forest, the livestock and the water.
19th century
Carlists, Madoz and disentailment
Madoz's Dictionary gives figures from the mid-19th century: in 1847 Huélamo had 120 houses and 469 souls, with half the municipality cultivated and the other half covered with timber pines; Mira, in 1848, had 384 houses and 1,519 souls, in a stony municipality of poor yield.
1936 – 1950s
War, maquis and post-war
The Agrupación Guerrillera de Levante operated in the Serranía; from November 1947 it was called the Agrupación Guerrillera de Levante y Aragón (AGLA), according to the Democratic Memory project of the UCLM.
1950s – today
The emptying
The INE records 2,605 registered inhabitants for Mira in 1950 and 937 in 2021, with the caveat that the municipality took in Narboneta between 1857 and the census before 1930.
21st century
Today
In the 21st century the Serranía de Cuenca is a land with very few people and a great deal of protection. The Natural Park was designated in 2007 by Law 5/2007, with 73,726 hectares, and in 2019 UNESCO designated the Valle del Cabriel Biosphere Reserve, with 421,765.93 hectares according to the BOE. In 2021 the regional government listed the Gancheros del Alto Tajo as a Bien de Interés Cultural.